Year of The Jacket – episode 1

Yes 2013 will be the year of the jacket! I know 2013 has already started some time ago, but these things need time to mature, don’t you think?

It had all started with this jacket I discovered more than a year ago when I bought a bundle of old issues of Burda magazine. This one dates from October 2007 and I love the circles lines (they’re not pocket by the way).

schéma veste burda

Then last weekend I have been the lucky winner of Alexandra’s giveway and will soon receive the Colette Anise pattern: a beautiful cropped jacket you’ve all seen.

schéma modèle

And then, last monday, when I came back from a weekend in my family for Easter, what did I have in my mailbox: the Pavot coat pattern by Deer & Doe. It was actually a surprise gift for my birthday from my wonderful friends of knitting group (Thanks a lot Lucy, Catherine and Martine!).

schéma du modèle

So yes, how can 2013 not be the year of the jacket?

 I’m starting with the Burda jacket, though it’s not the easiest one, I think the Pavot is easier but I had already started tracing my pattern and cutting fabric for a muslin, so it will have to be the Burda one. I’m not sure which one will be the most difficult between Anise and Burda: the Anise has more technical difficulties (I’ve seen some of them when I bought the Anise companion upon pattern release), but the challenge with Burda often lies in the instructions…

veste burda 05-04-2013_photo 1

So on to my muslin: I cut a size 42 in a rather heavy cotton twill, originally intended for something else. But as you can see, some lines appeared after my initial washing of the fabric: the dye has faded in some areas (see why you should always pre-wash your fabric, imagine that happening once I had done the whole jacket??).

veste burda 05-04-2013_DSCN2705
white lines due to a dye problem

veste burda 05-04-2013_photo 3

There are 13 pieces to this jacket and lots of curved seams: they were my first challenge, and I’m already glad that this is only a muslin. I will have to take extra care in cutting the fabric and transferring the markings. And for once I will transfer the stitching lines too. As I have learned already, a minor imprecision in the cutting or sewing of the side half circles pieces result in ugly misalignment.

 veste burda 05-04-2013_DSCN2703

veste burda 05-04-2013_DSCN2706

veste burda 05-04-2013_DSCN2698

Many notches are necessary after the first seams and some pressing is required too. I tried the jacket on after these first steps and the armholes might need to be deepened a little. Unfortunately this is the biggest size available, so I’ll have to change the pattern myself. I’ll see once I’ve set the sleeves in, no need to worry just now.

8 commentaires pour “Year of The Jacket – episode 1

    1. Yeah it does look difficult 🙂 I’ll take my time and probably curse a lot! Have you made your mind up on what you’ll be sewing first for your sis? There were so many options!

  1. I just bought the Pavot pattern as well and am determined to make a jacket before the end of the year so reading about your muslin is a total inspiration!

    1. ooh great! I’m really happy to know I won’t be alone in this adventure 🙂 I’m looking forward to see how you get on with your pattern. Have you already chosen the fabric?

  2. I’ve never seen that circles jacket before – it is amazing! Sorry about that fabric. Could it be over-dyed I wonder? Good luck!

    1. Nah I don’t want to bother with dyeing 🙂 In a way it’s perfect because the fabric ended up being too heavy for what I had originally planned (trousers) and now I have 3 m of muslin fabric – so it’s not so bad!

  3. I’m really excited about this jacket-I have the pattern but haven’t gotten around to making blazery stuff yet. Interested in seeing how you go. One thing I can suggest (well two) is using an adjustable tracing wheel and carbon paper for perfect allowance tracing (it is awesome on curves) and grading the curved seam allowances down (by cutting them close to the seamline after sewing). I’d also suggest using iron-on double-sided tape to stabilize the curves and keep everything together and immobile until sewing (prevent ’em stretching/ distorting). Good luck.

    1. this is my first attempt at blazery stuff as you say 🙂 I don’t have any and I thought it could make a nice addition to my wardrobe, plus I quite like the challenge! Thanks for your suggestions, I’ll definitely try both of them. I was wondering about maybe stay-stitching all the curves prior to sewing. But actually if I thread-trace the seamlines, it might end up doing the same? Or am I just kidding myself? That was a thing I forgot to mention in the post: Burda instructions (at least in French magazines or enveloppes) never mention stay-stitching whereas it seems to be everywhere in Anglo-Saxon patterns. I wonder if Burda change the instructions and include this step for non-European patterns..

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